The true cost of fast fashion | The Economist

Buying clothes has never been easier.
買衣服是如此的簡單。

Eighty billion items are manufactured every year.
每年衣服的產量就有80億件

We're putting too much product out there, most of their product ending up in landfill.
我們生產了太多衣服到市場，絕大多數最後都跑到垃圾掩埋場裡了。

So-called ‘fast-fashion’ allows consumers to buy more, but they're wearing these garments less often and disposing of them at an unprecedented rate. 
所謂的“時尚轉變”讓消費者購買更多商品，但他們穿著同一件衣服的頻率降低，且汰換的速度過於快速了。

Throwaway Fashion
"一次性時尚"

This is where wardrobe castoffs end up.
這就是衣櫥廢棄物的最終的目的地。

Savannah rags is a clothes recycling and processing plant in Nottingham, England.
Savannah rags是英國諾丁漢的一家服裝回收和加工廠。

They process discarded clothes from recycling bins around the country.
他們從全國各地的回收箱處理丟棄的衣服。

Mohammed Patel (Head of Logistic, Savanna Rags)
Mohammed Patel has been running this plant for 12 years.
Mohammed Patel已經運營這家工廠12年了。

Majority of it will go to Africa and Dubai.
大部分的衣服將會進入非洲和杜拜。

We sent some across the Europe and we have a couple of spires here in the UK that buy from us also.
我們也出貨到歐洲，在英國也有幾個從我們這裡購買的頂尖買家。

Globally, sorting plants like this only deal with around 25% of discarded clothes.
綜觀全球，這樣的分類工廠只處理大約25％的廢棄衣服。

In Britain, more than 300,000 tons of clothes end up in landfill every year.
在英國，每年有超過30萬噸的衣服進入垃圾填埋場。

It's the fastest-growing category of waste in the country.
它是該國增長最快的一類廢棄物。

But this is a global problem.
但這是一個全球性問題。

Expanding middle classes in emerging markets are hungry for more and cheaper fashion.
新興的中產階級市場不斷擴大，渴望獲得更多更便宜的時尚。

It's estimated that by 2050, global clothing sales could more than triple.
據估計，到2050年，全球服裝銷售量將增長三倍以上。

One of the things that we've noticed that the quality of the actual material being used have gone down.
我們注意到的一件事情，衣服所使用的材料質量下降了。

We're now having to process a lot more just to get the same quality of goods that we can sell on.
我們現在必須有更多道處理程序，好讓我們可以銷售相同質量的商品。

But how can the fashion industry continue to grow while addressing the environmental need for people to buy fewer clothes?
但是要如何兼顧時尚產業的成長，同時呼籲大家為了環境而少買衣服呢？

 New York fashionista, Ijeoma Kola, is less about rags and more about the latest runway fashions.
紐約時尚達人Ijeoma Kola是個不守舊，打破傳統的時尚尖端人士。

Because I post often on Instagram, there is a little bit of pressure to have a new outfit.
因為我經常在Instagram上發文，在買新衣服的時候會讓我有點壓力。

She's a fashion blogger.
她是一位時尚部落客。

Her stylish posts and clothing tips are attracting a big online following.
她的時尚貼文和潮流穿搭吸引了許多網路上的追蹤者。

I found myself before buying a lot of clothes.
我之前發現我買了太多的衣服了。

I usually bought clothes from H&M and Zara, or ASOS.
我之前常常購買H&M、ZARA、和ASOS的衣服。

If you're looking for trendy pieces they have them, they're pretty affordable.
如果你正在找他們家賣的的時尚單品，那麼它們是非常實惠的。

Today she's looking for a new outfit for a swanky industry event.
今天，她正在為一個時髦的企業活動尋找新的服裝。

But this store doesn't sell clothes, it rents them.
但這間店的衣服，只租不賣。

Ijeoma has been championing Rent the Runway’s radical new approach to high-end fashion.
Ijeoma一直在倡導針對高端時尚界的新做法: Rent the Runway。

Rent the Runway is a clothing borrowing service which allows you to rent clothes for either 4 or 8 days at a time.
Rent the Runway是一項服裝借用服務，允許你租用衣服4~8天。

You are cycling through clothing as fast, but you're borrowing it with other people so other people get to wear the same things that you're wearing as well.
妳汰換衣服的速度很快，但是因為是去租的，所以其他人也可以穿到妳穿過的衣服。

On average, only 20% of clothes are worn on a regular basis.
平均而言，只有20％的衣服定期被穿著。

Rent the Runway’s mission is to change consumers relationship with the clothes they wear.
Rent the Runway的使命是改變消費者與他們穿的衣服的關係。

Rather than buying something only getting to wear it maybe three four times before you decide to give it away or throw it away, an item is worn a lot more when it is being shared across different people.
買一件衣服，只穿過三四次就打算要丟棄掉，不如讓它跟不同的人們分享，可以被使用更多次。

Rent the Runway only has a couple of flagship stores but online it's a giant and it's disrupting the fashion industry
Rent the Runway雖然只有幾家實體旗艦店，但在線上它是一個巨人，它正在干擾時尚界。

To date, there are 10 million members so it comes with a hefty laundry bill.
到目前為止，已有1000萬會員，因此它增加了大筆洗衣費。

The company claims to have the largest dry-cleaning facility in the world.
該公司聲稱擁有世界上最大的乾洗設施。

Rent the Runway is getting more mileage out of items of clothing, it's also helping to tackle an increasing throwaway culture.
Rent the Runway正在從服裝項目中獲得更多成果，它也有助於解決不斷增加的一次性丟棄文化。

But the last thing clothing brands want is for consumers to buy less.
但是服裝品牌最不樂見的，就是衣服購買量減少。

Except perhaps, for Patagonia, an outdoor apparel brand which sent shockwaves through the industry with this full-page advert in the New York Times on Black Friday, 2011.
除了Patagonia，他們這是一個戶外服裝品牌，在2011年的黑色星期五，這個出現在紐約時報上，整頁篇幅的廣告在整個行業引起了震撼。

Here in Amsterdam, Ryan Garrett heads up Patagonia's operations in Europe and the Middle East.
在阿姆斯特丹，瑞安加勒特負責Patagonia在歐洲和中東的業務。

The apparel industry has become one of the most polluting in the world.
服裝業已成為世界上污染最嚴重的行業之一。

As an industry, we're creating product that people don't need by stimulating demand and creating this sense that ‘if you don't buy it now, it's not going to be available.’
作為一個行業，我們通過刺激需求創造出人們不需要的產品，透過創造出一種感覺，即“如果你現在不買，那就不會有用。”

There's this race to the bottom on price and quality that is an unsustainable model.
在價格和質量方面，這種競爭模式不是一種可以長久的模式。

Patagonia's philosophy flies in the face of fast fashion to buy once, buy well, and mend clothing for a longer lifespan.
Patagonia的理念是與大潮流背道而馳的；只購買一次好的產品，並且花時間維修它以提升使用年限。

So maybe doing that in Amsterdam and then figuring out how to share it elsewhere.
所以也許先在阿姆斯特丹這樣做，然後找到如何分享這個理念到別的地區的方法。

With the largest single repair facility in North America, and mobile mending services around Europe and America, Patagonia's anti-fashion environmental message has resonated with people who buy into their vision.
有著北美最大的服裝維修設施以及歐洲和美國的移動維修服務，Patagonia的反時尚環保行為引起了購買產品的消費者共鳴。

Helping our customers keep their product and used longer was also one of the original big ideas of Patagonia.
幫助我們的客戶維護他們的產品和增加使用壽命也是Patagonia的初衷之一。

Between 2008 and 2014, profits reportedly tripled.
據報告，2008年至2014年間，公司利潤增長了兩倍。

Patagonia claims it generates revenue of nearly 1 billion dollars a year.
Patagonia聲稱它每年可帶來近10億美元的收入。

It's hope is to inspire other brands to tackle the environmental impact of fast fashion.
她們希望激勵其他品牌正視"快時尚"對環境的影響。

If I had the opportunity to sit down with leaders from some of the bigger fast fashion companies in the world, what I'd really encourage them to understand the full impact of their supply chains.
如果我有機會與世界上一些大型"快時尚"公司的領導者坐下來聊聊，我會讓他們了解他們供應鏈的整體環境的影響。

Patagonia provides a glimpse into a more enlightened approach to fashion.
Patagonia提供了一種更加開明的時尚方法。

But they're a rare example.
但他們只是極少數。

From a hannett, the boom in fast fashion has been good for business, but this throw away culture sits uncomfortably with him.
對Ahannett而言，快時尚的盛行對他的事業有利，但這種拋棄文化讓他感到良心不安。

Sometimes it's soul-destroying because you come to work and you just think, is this what we've come to that the human race all we think about is dispose things.
有些時候，這種感覺會深入靈魂的，因為當你來上班，你只要想到，這就是我們人類一直在做的事情，胡亂丟棄物品。

The environmental impact on the planet is just colossal and I don't think we as the human race realized what it is that we're doing, just for the sake of wearing a pair of jeans.
這對環境的影響是很巨大的，然而我不認為人們知道他們為了穿一條新牛仔褲，對地球造成什麼樣的影響。

In order to tackle the throwaway cultureㄝ brands and consumers need to change their behaviors.
為了解決一次性丟棄文化，品牌和消費者需要改變他們的行為。

Industry pioneers are proving that there are viable business opportunities in selling less, others need to follow suit. 
已經有先驅企業證明，減少銷售有可行的商機，其他人只需要效仿即可。

 

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